Auxerre, France Guide
Nestled on the banks of the Yonne River in Burgundy, Auxerre is a captivating stop for anyone exploring France's rich history and picturesque landscapes. This charming city instantly draws you in with its well-preserved medieval core, where cobbled lanes wind past half-timbered houses and grand religious edifices. You won't want to miss the impressive Saint-Étienne Cathedral, a Gothic masterpiece with stunning stained glass, or the truly unique Abbey of Saint-Germain, home to ancient Carolingian crypts adorned with some of France's oldest frescoes. It's a place where history feels incredibly tangible, inviting you to wander and discover at your own pace. Beyond its cultural gems, Auxerre offers delightful riverside walks along the Yonne, perfect for a leisurely stroll or a quiet picnic, especially when the weather's fine. Being the gateway to the world-renowned Chablis vineyards, a day trip to sample some exquisite white wine is almost a given if you're in the area. However, it's worth noting that while charming, Auxerre is quite a tranquil city, particularly in the evenings outside of peak summer. Don't expect a buzzing nightlife scene; instead, embrace the peaceful ambiance. Also, while the city itself is wonderfully walkable, exploring the wider region's vineyards often requires a car, as public transport options can be limited for those off-the-beaten-path experiences.
Food & Cuisine
Burgundy is renowned for its rich culinary traditions, and Auxerre is no exception. Expect hearty dishes featuring beef bourguignon, coq au vin, and escargots. Don't miss the opportunity to sample local cheeses like Époisses and Chaource, paired with a crisp Chablis wine. For a truly authentic experience, visit the Auxerre market (held on Tuesdays and Fridays) to browse fresh produce, local cheeses, and regional specialties. Several excellent restaurants line the Quai de la République, offering stunning views of the Yonne River while you dine. For a more casual experience, explore the smaller bistros and cafes tucked away in the old town. Consider trying L'Aspérule for a Michelin-starred experience or Le Bourgogne for traditional Burgundian fare.
Nightlife
Auxerre's nightlife is generally relaxed and centered around its restaurants and bars. The Quai de la République is a popular spot for evening drinks, with several bars offering outdoor seating and views of the river. The old town also has a selection of cozy pubs and wine bars. While Auxerre isn't known for its wild club scene, there are a few options for those seeking a late-night dance. Check local listings for live music events, which are often held in bars and pubs throughout the city.
Best Time to Visit
The best time to visit Auxerre is during the spring (April-May) or fall (September-October). The weather is pleasant, with mild temperatures and fewer crowds than the peak summer months. Spring brings blooming flowers and lush greenery, while fall offers stunning foliage and the excitement of the grape harvest. Summer (June-August) can be hot and crowded, but it's also a great time to enjoy outdoor activities and festivals. Winter (November-March) can be cold and damp, but the city takes on a cozy charm, and you'll find fewer tourists.
Transportation
Auxerre offers a reliable bus network, Leo, that connects various parts of the city and its surrounding areas. While there isn't a tram or subway system, the bus network is efficient and affordable for getting around. Walking is also a great option for exploring the historic center, as many of the main attractions are within easy walking distance of each other. Taxis are readily available, and car rentals are an option for those who wish to explore the wider Burgundy region.
Airport
The closest major airport to Auxerre is Paris Orly Airport (ORY), located approximately 150 kilometers (93 miles) north of the city. From Orly, you can take a train to Auxerre, which typically involves a change in Paris. The journey takes around 2-3 hours. Alternatively, you can rent a car at the airport and drive to Auxerre, which takes approximately 1.5-2 hours depending on traffic.
Attractions
Stade de l'Abbé-Deschamps
Home to AJ Auxerre, a historic football club, the Stade de l'Abbé-Deschamps offers a glimpse into the local sports culture. If you're a football fan, consider attending a match to experience the passion of the fans. Even if there isn't a game, you can admire the stadium from the outside and learn about its history.
Musée Leblanc-Duvernoy
Housed in a beautiful 18th-century mansion, the Musée Leblanc-Duvernoy showcases a diverse collection of art and artifacts. Admire paintings, sculptures, and decorative arts from various periods, including a notable collection of faience pottery. Explore the museum's elegant rooms and discover the artistic heritage of Auxerre and the surrounding region. A cultural gem for art lovers.
Eglise Saint-Pierre
The Eglise Saint-Pierre is a beautiful church in Auxerre. Admire its architecture and explore its interior. It's a place for quiet reflection and appreciation of religious art. A peaceful and historic landmark in the city.
Auxerre Cathedral
A magnificent Gothic cathedral, the Cathédrale Saint-Étienne d'Auxerre dominates the city skyline. Marvel at its stunning stained-glass windows, intricate sculptures, and soaring architecture. Climb the tower for panoramic views of Auxerre and the surrounding countryside. A must-see for history buffs and architecture enthusiasts, offering a glimpse into the region's rich religious heritage.
Pont Paul-Bert
Cross the Yonne River on the Pont Paul-Bert, a bridge offering scenic views of Auxerre. Take a leisurely walk and admire the cityscape, including the cathedral and the old town. It's a great spot for taking photos and enjoying the ambiance of the river. A pleasant way to experience the beauty of Auxerre.
Place Saint-Nicolas
Place Saint-Nicolas is a charming square in the heart of Auxerre. Relax at one of the cafes, admire the architecture, and soak up the atmosphere of this lively public space. It's a great place to people-watch and experience the local culture. A central gathering point in Auxerre.
Abbey of Saint-Germain d'Auxerre
Explore the Abbey of Saint-Germain, a former Benedictine monastery with a rich history dating back to the 6th century. Discover its Carolingian crypt, one of the oldest in France, adorned with remarkable frescoes. Wander through the peaceful gardens and admire the abbey's architectural evolution over the centuries. A fascinating journey through time and art.
Quartier de la Marine
Stroll through the charming Quartier de la Marine, the old marina district of Auxerre. Admire the half-timbered houses, wander along the quays, and soak up the atmosphere of this historic area. Enjoy a meal at one of the waterfront restaurants or simply relax and watch the boats go by. A picturesque and atmospheric part of Auxerre.
Auxerre Botanical Garden
The Auxerre Botanical Garden is a tranquil oasis in the city. Stroll through the gardens and admire the diverse collection of plants. It's a great place to relax and escape the hustle and bustle of the city. A peaceful retreat for nature lovers.
Tour de l'Horloge
The Tour de l'Horloge, or Clock Tower, is a medieval landmark in Auxerre. This iconic tower once formed part of the city's fortifications. Admire its architecture and learn about its history as a symbol of Auxerre's civic pride. It's a great photo opportunity and a reminder of the city's past.
Day Trips
Flavigny-sur-Ozerain is another of France's "most beautiful villages," famous for its anise candies, Anis de Flavigny, produced in the former Benedictine abbey. The village boasts stunning views, medieval ramparts, and a charming atmosphere. It's a perfect destination for a relaxing day trip.
1 hour 30 minutes by car from Auxerre Troyes is a city known for its well-preserved medieval architecture, particularly its half-timbered houses. It was the historical capital of the Champagne region. The city offers a rich history, beautiful churches, and a vibrant atmosphere. It's also a great place for shopping, with numerous factory outlets.
2 hours by car from Auxerre Fontainebleau is home to the magnificent Château de Fontainebleau, one of the largest French royal châteaux. The palace has been a residence of French monarchs from Louis VII to Napoleon III. The surrounding forest of Fontainebleau is also a popular destination for hiking and rock climbing.
2 hours 30 minutes by car from Auxerre Semur-en-Auxois is a picturesque medieval town perched on a pink granite promontory, surrounded by the Armançon River. Its imposing ramparts, towers, and the Collegiate Church of Notre-Dame create a dramatic skyline. The town offers a fascinating glimpse into Burgundy's rich history.
1 hour 30 minutes by car from Auxerre Vézelay is a UNESCO World Heritage site perched on a hilltop, dominated by the magnificent Sainte-Marie-Madeleine Basilica. This pilgrimage church is a masterpiece of Romanesque art and architecture. The town itself is a delightful maze of narrow streets, artisan shops, and stunning views of the surrounding countryside.
1 hour by car from Auxerre Noyers, officially Noyers-sur-Serein, is considered one of the most beautiful villages in France. Its well-preserved medieval architecture, including half-timbered houses, cobbled streets, and a circular rampart, transports you back in time. The village is also known for its art galleries and craft shops.
1 hour by car from Auxerre Chablis is world-renowned for its crisp, dry white wines made from Chardonnay grapes. A visit offers the chance to tour vineyards, sample wines at local cellars, and learn about the winemaking process. Beyond the wine, Chablis is a charming town with a historic church and picturesque streets perfect for a leisurely stroll.
30 minutes by car from Auxerre Flavigny-sur-Ozerain
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Troyes
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Fontainebleau
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Semur-en-Auxois
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Vézelay
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Noyers
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Chablis
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