Laon, France Guide
Laon is one of those wonderfully unique French cities that truly makes you feel like you've stepped back in time the moment you arrive. Perched dramatically atop a solitary hill, its skyline is instantly recognizable, dominated by the magnificent Notre-Dame Cathedral, an architectural marvel that pre-dates even Paris's famous counterpart. Beyond this stunning landmark, you'll love exploring the labyrinthine cobblestone streets of the old town, still largely enclosed by its remarkably preserved medieval ramparts. Walking these ancient walls offers superb panoramic views over the surrounding plains, making for an unforgettable cultural immersion and a fantastic way to stretch your legs. However, be aware that Laon's elevated position, while undeniably picturesque, does mean a fair bit of uphill walking, especially if you're arriving by train at the lower station. Thankfully, a convenient local bus service connects the lower town to the historic upper city, which is a sensible option for those not keen on a steep climb. While its quiet charm is a major draw for many, it's worth noting that Laon isn't a city for extensive nightlife or a vast array of dining options; evenings here are generally tranquil. It’s a destination best savored for its profound history and serene atmosphere, perfect for thoughtful exploration rather than a lively urban buzz.
Food & Cuisine
Laon's culinary scene reflects the rich agricultural heritage of the Aisne region. Expect hearty, traditional French cuisine with a focus on local ingredients. Maroilles cheese, a pungent and creamy cheese from the nearby Thiérache region, is a must-try, often featured in savory tarts and sauces. Look out for dishes featuring game meats, such as wild boar or venison, especially during the autumn months. For a taste of local produce, visit the weekly market held in the Place du Général Leclerc, where you can find fresh fruits, vegetables, cheeses, and other regional specialties. Several charming restaurants line the streets of the upper town, offering a range of dining options from casual bistros to more formal establishments. "Le Saint-Martin" is a well-regarded restaurant known for its refined French cuisine and elegant ambiance.
Nightlife
Laon's nightlife is relatively low-key compared to larger cities, but it offers a relaxed and convivial atmosphere. Most of the bars and pubs are concentrated in the upper town, particularly around the Place du Général Leclerc and the surrounding streets. You'll find a mix of traditional French bars serving local wines and beers, as well as some more modern establishments offering cocktails and live music on weekends. Don't expect wild parties, but rather a chance to unwind with a drink and enjoy the company of locals and fellow travelers in a charming setting.
Best Time to Visit
The best time to visit Laon is during the spring (April-May) or autumn (September-October). The weather is generally mild and pleasant, perfect for exploring the city on foot. Spring brings blooming flowers and lush greenery, while autumn offers stunning foliage colors. Summer (June-August) can be quite hot and crowded, while winter (November-March) can be cold and damp, although the city takes on a certain charm under a blanket of snow.
Transportation
Laon's unique topography means getting around can be an adventure in itself! The city is served by a funicular railway, known locally as the "Poma," which connects the lower town to the upper town, making the ascent much easier. Several bus lines operate within Laon and connect it to surrounding towns and villages. While there's no tram or metro system, the bus network is efficient and reliable. Walking is also a great way to explore the upper town, allowing you to fully appreciate its medieval character. Be prepared for some uphill climbs, but the views are well worth the effort!
Airport
The closest major airport to Laon is Paris Charles de Gaulle Airport (CDG), located approximately 130 kilometers (80 miles) southwest of the city. From CDG, you can take a train to Laon, which typically involves a change at Gare du Nord in Paris. The train journey takes around 2-3 hours. Alternatively, you can rent a car at the airport and drive to Laon, which takes approximately 1.5-2 hours depending on traffic.
Attractions
Chapelle des Templiers
Discover the Chapelle des Templiers, a small but historically significant chapel. Admire its architecture and learn about its connection to the Knights Templar. The chapel offers a glimpse into the religious and military history of the region. Its simple beauty is quite captivating.
Porte de Soissons
The Porte de Soissons is one of the impressive fortified gates that once guarded Laon. Admire its medieval architecture and imagine the city under siege. Walk through the gate and step back in time. It's a great photo opportunity and a reminder of Laon's strategic importance.
Abbaye Saint-Martin de Laon
Explore the ruins of the Abbaye Saint-Martin, a former Benedictine abbey. Discover the remnants of this once-grand religious complex. Imagine the lives of the monks who lived and worked here. The abbey offers a glimpse into the region's monastic past and architectural heritage.
Musée de Laon
Delve into the history and art of Laon at the Musée de Laon. Admire collections of paintings, sculptures, and archaeological artifacts. Learn about the city's past from its early beginnings to the present day. The museum offers a fascinating glimpse into the cultural heritage of the region.
Office de Tourisme de Laon
Start your exploration of Laon at the Office de Tourisme. Gather information about attractions, events, and accommodations. The friendly staff can provide maps, brochures, and insider tips to help you make the most of your visit. A great first stop for any traveler.
Porte de Mons
Another of Laon's historic gates, the Porte de Mons offers a glimpse into the city's past. Explore its architecture and learn about its role in defending the city. The gate provides a picturesque entrance to the old town and a reminder of Laon's medieval heritage.
Vieille Ville (Old Town) of Laon
Wander through the charming Vieille Ville, Laon's historic heart. Discover medieval ramparts, cobblestone streets, and well-preserved buildings. Explore hidden squares, quaint shops, and inviting cafes. Immerse yourself in the city's rich past as you stroll through this picturesque area. The Porte de Soissons and Porte de Mons are must-see gates.
Chemin des Dames
A short drive from Laon, the Chemin des Dames is a poignant World War I battlefield. Visit memorials, cemeteries, and museums that commemorate the soldiers who fought here. Reflect on the sacrifices made during this pivotal period of history. The Dragon's Cave (Caverne du Dragon) is a particularly moving site.
Ramparts of Laon
Walk along the Ramparts of Laon and enjoy panoramic views of the surrounding countryside. Explore the medieval fortifications that once protected the city. The ramparts offer a unique perspective on Laon's history and strategic location. It's a great way to get some exercise and fresh air.
Laon Cathedral
Laon Cathedral, a masterpiece of early Gothic architecture, dominates the hilltop city. Explore its soaring interiors, intricate sculptures, and stunning stained glass. Climb the towers for panoramic views of the surrounding countryside. A truly awe-inspiring landmark that showcases the rich history and artistic heritage of Laon. Don't miss the iconic oxen statues adorning the towers!
Day Trips
Pierrefonds is dominated by its fairytale castle, the Château de Pierrefonds, a stunning reconstruction by Viollet-le-Duc. Explore the castle's impressive architecture, wander through its courtyards, and imagine yourself transported back to the Middle Ages. The surrounding forest offers beautiful walking trails.
1 hour 15 minutes by car Saint-Quentin, a town that has risen from the ashes of war, showcases a remarkable blend of resilience and architectural beauty. Admire the stunning Art Deco style of the town hall, explore the Basilica, and discover the charming streets of the city center.
45 minutes by car Reims, the unofficial capital of the Champagne region, is a must-see for history buffs and bubbly enthusiasts alike. Explore the magnificent Reims Cathedral, where French kings were once crowned, and delve into the city's Roman past. Of course, no trip to Reims is complete without a Champagne tasting at one of the many prestigious Champagne houses.
1 hour by train or car Compiègne boasts an impressive imperial palace, the Château de Compiègne, which was a royal and imperial residence. Explore the palace's opulent interiors and beautiful gardens. The town also has a charming historic center and is surrounded by the Compiègne Forest, perfect for a nature walk.
1 hour 15 minutes by car Soissons, one of the oldest towns in France, offers a fascinating glimpse into the country's early history. Explore the ruins of the Abbey of Saint-Jean-des-Vignes, wander through the charming old town, and discover the secrets of the Battle of Soissons. It's a great option for a relaxed day of historical exploration.
30 minutes by train or car La Fère is a small town with a rich military history. It's known for its impressive fortifications and its strategic importance throughout the centuries. Explore the town's ramparts, discover its historical buildings, and enjoy a peaceful stroll along the Oise River.
20 minutes by car Pierrefonds
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Saint-Quentin
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Reims
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Compiègne
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Soissons
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La Fère
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